Sudan an Odyssey
A few weeks ago I went to Khartoum for the first time, as part of a delegation from the House of Lords on the invitation of the University of Khartoum to attend their peace and reconciliation conference. For me, this was to be no ordinary trip, but an exciting and often moving return to the land my great grandfather left, or to be accurate, was taken, in the most violent of circumstances around a hundred and fifty years ago.
I went with some apprehension, having received briefings from many colleagues who had travelled there many times, and seen the results of decades of war, destruction and conflict. What I hadn’t heard very much about was the Sudanese people. I was greeted like a long lost family member, by men and women who showed enormous generosity. I was struck by the friendliness dignity and kindness, of the local population and hospitality, despite significant poverty.
An article had appeared in the Sudanese media soon after my maiden speech back in July 2010, where as customary, I referred to my family history, explaining how my great- grandfather, Abdullah, was taken to Cyprus as a young man by slave traders during the Ottoman period, and sold to a Cypriot merchant. He was eventually allowed his freedom and married a Turkish woman. Today, there are still thousands of Turkish-Cypriot and people in Turkey, from African descent. A legacy of their ancestors being taken during the 19th century. Little research or documentation exists about our history.
Arriving on a Friday, we visited the impressive Ottoman- style Nur Mosque, where I was invited to join the women for Friday prayers. The Imam announced that there were visitors from the UK amongst the congregation, and after prayers, the women moved to surround and warmly welcome and embrace us.
I met students, young women, children, and many impressive women MPs - North Sudan has 96, a higher proportion than the UK, many from professional backgrounds.
The legacy of the Ottomans is still evident in aspects of the Arabic language, culture, and particularly their food, which was familiar to me as the Turkish dishes I have grown up with.
I learnt for example that Khartoum, is said to derive its name from the thin spit of land at the convergence of the Nile rivers, which resembles an elephant’s trunk (khurtum). This is also the same word in Turkish.
Khartoum is not representative of the rest of Sudan, and a lot safer, but I, like most woman who have been hassled, stared at and followed in many other countries, was pleasantly surprised that there was no evidence of this. I felt reasonably safe. Women drive around independently, unlike some Arab countries.
At the hotel where we stayed, I enjoyed witnessing large family groups of Egyptian-Sudanese Coptic Christians from North Sudan, arriving to celebrate their Orthodox Easter holiday in Khartoum, including women in short skirts without head scarves.
Khartoum is a very diverse city, where refugees fleeing war from Chad, Ethiopia and other neighboring countries have flocked in the past few decades and there is much poverty.
In July 2011, the Sudanese government signed a peace deal for Darfur. But implementation of these agreements have been slow and conflicts continue affecting millions of people across the country. All of us who care deeply about this important nation, want to see reducing conflict and promoting long-term peace in Sudan, as a priority. But despite the South becoming an independent nation, conflict between the two new nations continues, and in particular, tribal conflict continue. The UK is working with affected parties towards a sustainable solution in Darfur, the East, Abyei, Blue Nile and Southern Kordofan. This is core to preventing conflict in these fragile states.
It will take time for good governance to be developed. It is important the UK government continues working with the Sudanese government, political parties, civil society and human rights groups, to one day bring lasting peace and prosperity.
The most frequent question I was asked was “where was your great- grandfather from?” I only know he was from the Nubian region in the North, and kidnapped while playing by the River Nile. I took photos of my family, who were so alike the people I saw there. I have now begun researching my family history, and hope one day to find relatives who know the other side of the story
I went with some apprehension, having received briefings from many colleagues who had travelled there many times, and seen the results of decades of war, destruction and conflict. What I hadn’t heard very much about was the Sudanese people. I was greeted like a long lost family member, by men and women who showed enormous generosity. I was struck by the friendliness dignity and kindness, of the local population and hospitality, despite significant poverty.
An article had appeared in the Sudanese media soon after my maiden speech back in July 2010, where as customary, I referred to my family history, explaining how my great- grandfather, Abdullah, was taken to Cyprus as a young man by slave traders during the Ottoman period, and sold to a Cypriot merchant. He was eventually allowed his freedom and married a Turkish woman. Today, there are still thousands of Turkish-Cypriot and people in Turkey, from African descent. A legacy of their ancestors being taken during the 19th century. Little research or documentation exists about our history.
Arriving on a Friday, we visited the impressive Ottoman- style Nur Mosque, where I was invited to join the women for Friday prayers. The Imam announced that there were visitors from the UK amongst the congregation, and after prayers, the women moved to surround and warmly welcome and embrace us.
I met students, young women, children, and many impressive women MPs - North Sudan has 96, a higher proportion than the UK, many from professional backgrounds.
The legacy of the Ottomans is still evident in aspects of the Arabic language, culture, and particularly their food, which was familiar to me as the Turkish dishes I have grown up with.
I learnt for example that Khartoum, is said to derive its name from the thin spit of land at the convergence of the Nile rivers, which resembles an elephant’s trunk (khurtum). This is also the same word in Turkish.
Khartoum is not representative of the rest of Sudan, and a lot safer, but I, like most woman who have been hassled, stared at and followed in many other countries, was pleasantly surprised that there was no evidence of this. I felt reasonably safe. Women drive around independently, unlike some Arab countries.
At the hotel where we stayed, I enjoyed witnessing large family groups of Egyptian-Sudanese Coptic Christians from North Sudan, arriving to celebrate their Orthodox Easter holiday in Khartoum, including women in short skirts without head scarves.
Khartoum is a very diverse city, where refugees fleeing war from Chad, Ethiopia and other neighboring countries have flocked in the past few decades and there is much poverty.
In July 2011, the Sudanese government signed a peace deal for Darfur. But implementation of these agreements have been slow and conflicts continue affecting millions of people across the country. All of us who care deeply about this important nation, want to see reducing conflict and promoting long-term peace in Sudan, as a priority. But despite the South becoming an independent nation, conflict between the two new nations continues, and in particular, tribal conflict continue. The UK is working with affected parties towards a sustainable solution in Darfur, the East, Abyei, Blue Nile and Southern Kordofan. This is core to preventing conflict in these fragile states.
It will take time for good governance to be developed. It is important the UK government continues working with the Sudanese government, political parties, civil society and human rights groups, to one day bring lasting peace and prosperity.
The most frequent question I was asked was “where was your great- grandfather from?” I only know he was from the Nubian region in the North, and kidnapped while playing by the River Nile. I took photos of my family, who were so alike the people I saw there. I have now begun researching my family history, and hope one day to find relatives who know the other side of the story
By Baroness Hussein-Ece, 16 hours 14 minutes ago
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